Itineraries

The Romanesque style between Pisa and Lucca


What is the Pisan Romanesque ? It is the architectural style that developed at the time of the rich and powerful Maritime Republic of Pisa in the construction sites of Piazza del Duomo with the construction of the Cathedral and the Baptistery. From there it spread throughout Tuscany to Sardinia and Corsica.
The religious buildings around Pisa, especially along Monte Pisano, are characterized by pievi and churches in Pisan Romanesque style built between the eleventh and twelfth centuries.

PISA, SAN PIERO A GRADO
The itinerary starts just outside Pisa, from the majestic Basilica of San Piero a Grado. It rises near a Roman landing place where, according to tradition, St. Peter landed in 44 A.D. on the way to Rome. The structure, built in the 11th century on the ruins of an early Christian basilica, preserves on the walls of the nave splendid frescoes by the painter Deodato Orlandi with stories of Saints Peter and Paul and the first Popes.

CASCINA and SAN CASCIANO
We continue in the plain of the Arno, between Pisa and Pontedera (city of the Vespa and home of the Piaggio Museum). In Cascina, the scene of a battle in the endless wars between Pisa and Florence and once famous for the manufacture of furniture, there is the Pieve di S. Maria Assunta, with a façade in Pisan Romanesque style, several arches and the interior of a basilica plan.
In the nearby San Casciano, the small jewel of the Pieve dei SS Cassiano e Giovanni, mentioned since the year 970. In the renovation works of the 12th century even Biduino, one of the greatest representatives of the time (he worked on the monuments in Pisa), and author of the architrave of the central portal depicting scenes from the Gospel, took part in the works.

VICOPISANO
Crossing the bridge over the Arno river, you take the direction of Vicopisano, a medieval walled village with 13 tower houses and the Rocca del Brunelleschi. Here is the Pieve di Santa Maria (XII century), on the square where in the Middle Ages there was the market, which preserves part of a cycle of frescoes of the 13th century and the wooden sculpture of the “Deposition of the Cross”. Nearby is the parish church of San Jacopo in Lupeta, dating back to the Longobard period as reported by the inscription on the portal, with a façade made of “verrucana” limestone, that is extracted from the nearby Monte della Verruca where there are the remains of the fortress of the same name.

On the road to Calci is the Pieve di Santa Giulia (XI century) that looks down on the Tower of Caprona, mentioned in the Divine Comedy, whose siege participated Dante himself. The present building, the result of multiple construction phases, has a simple facade with animal and plant motifs.

CALCI
The itinerary runs parallel to the Olive Oil Route of Monte Pisano, with farmhouses or a oil mills to buy or taste the extra virgin olive oil. In Calci, not far from the Monumental Charterhouse and the Museum of Natural History, you find the Parish Church of SS Giovanni and Ermolao, whose construction was completed by the Countess Matilde of Tuscany. It presents the facade divided by two orders of blind arcades and geometric motifs typical of Pisan architecture, and the bell tower unfinished but that was the function of military tower of sighting.

SAN GIULIANO TERME
We continue towards San Giuliano Terme along the road that, before the opening of the Forum, was the only one connecting Pisa with Lucca. Among the villas and historical residences of the 18th century Tuscan nobility are the Pieve di San Marco a Rigoli, with three naves and a baptismal font of the Lombard school, now also a wedding venue, and the Pieve di Santa Maria a Pugnano, probably of Lombard origin, with its imposing bell tower rebuilt after its destruction by the Nazis during the war. The parish church is near Villa Roncioni which houses the Cerratelli Foundation‘s collection of over 30,000 theatrical costumes.

If you are tired of churches, we suggest a dip in the thermal pool or a treatment at Bagni di Pisa, former residence of the Grand Dukes of Tuscany.

Sights

Our Romanesque itinerary and, if we wish, even romantic, starts just outside Pisa, from the majestic Basilica of San Piero a Grado, the most ancient testimony of the Christian age, built near a landing of the Roman era, where, according to tradition, San Pietro would have landed in 44 A.D during the trip to Rome. The structure, built in the 11th century on the remains of a previous early Christian basilica; the walls of the central nave preserve beautiful frescoes by the painter Deodato Orlandi with stories of Saints Peter and Paul. The basilica is now a wedding venue.

The itinerary continues in the Arno plain, between Pisa and Pontedera (city of the Vespa and headquaters of the Piaggio Museum).

First stop Cascina, in the Middle Ages theater of a decisive battle in the war between Pisa and Florence (the commemoration in early July). In the historic center of the town (once famous for the manufacture of furniture) is the Pieve di S. Maria Assunta, with its façade with different arches and the interior with a basilical plan and a Romanesque layout.

Returning to Pisa, in the village of San Casciano, do not miss the small jewel of the Parish Church of SS Cassiano and Giovanni, mentioned since 970. In the twelfth century Biduino took care of the renovation works, one of the greatest representatives of the artistic culture of the time, author of the lintel of the central portal depicting scenes from the Gospel.

Crossing the bridge over the Arno, take the direction of Vicopisano, a walled village of medieval origin famous for its tower houses and above all for the Rocca del Brunelleschi. Here is the Pieve di Santa Maria (12th century), which preserves the original wooden sculpture of the “Deposition of the Cross”. Nearby, the Parish Church of San Jacopo in Lupeta, dating back to the Longobard period, as reported in the inscription on the portal, with a limestone façade “verrucana”, extracted from the nearby Monte della Verruca, with the remains of the homonymous Fortress.

 

The itinerary runs parallel to the Oil Road del Monte Pisano, so don’t miss a stop at an oil mill, in a farmhouse or in a shop, to buy or taste the extra-virgin olive oil, of limited production and for this very renowned.

On the road to Calci is the Pieve di Santa Giulia (11th century), which looks down from the Torre di Caprona, mentioned by Dante in the Divine Comedy. The current building, result of multiple construction phases, has a simple facade with animal and plant motifs.

In Calci, not far from the Monumental Charterhouse and the Natural History Museum, pass by the Pieve dei SS Giovanni and Ermolao, completed by the Countess Matilda of Tuscany. It presents the façade divided by two orders of blind arches and geometric patterns, typical of the Pisan architecture, and the unfinished bell tower.

Leaving Calci, take the road to San Giuliano Terme and continue along the Lungomonte road which, before the opening of the Foro, was the only one to connect Pisa with Lucca.

Among the villas and historical residences of the Tuscan nobility of the eighteenth century (some of them can be visited), first you’ll encounter the Parish Church of San Marco in Rigoli, with three naves and a Lombard school baptismal font. The church is now also a wedding venue. And then the Pieve di Santa Maria, probably of Lombard origin, with the imposing bell tower, rebuilt after the destruction of the Nazis during the war.

You can continue to Lucca or, if you are tired, return to San Giuliano Terme for a dip in the thermal pool or a treatment at the Bagni di Pisa, the Grand Dukes of Tuscany Spa

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